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Article Dans Une Revue Geophysical Research Letters Année : 2023

Spectral wave dissipation over a roughness‐varying barrier reef

Résumé

The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness-varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non-linear transfers and mean current, to estimate the wave friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 to 4, with dependence on the ratio between near-bed orbital amplitude and roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization from Madsen (1995). The present results are discussed with respect to other field data recovered on coral and rocky grounds.
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Dates et versions

hal-03933180 , version 1 (10-01-2023)

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Damien Sous, Kévin Martins, Marion Tissier, Frédéric Bouchette, Samuel Meulé. Spectral wave dissipation over a roughness‐varying barrier reef. Geophysical Research Letters, inPress, 50 (5), pp.e2022GL102104. ⟨10.1029/2022GL102104⟩. ⟨hal-03933180⟩
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