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Article Dans Une Revue Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans Année : 2018

Energy dissipation in the inner surf zone: new insights from LiDAR-based roller geometry measurements

Résumé

The spatial and temporal variation of energy dissipation rates in breaking waves controls the mean circulation of the surf zone. As this circulation plays an important role in the morphodynamics of beaches, it is vital to develop better understanding of the energy dissipation processes in breaking and bro-ken waves. In this paper, we present the first direct field measurements of roller geometry extracted from a LiDAR data set of broken waves to obtain new insights into wave energy dissipation in the inner surf zone.We use a roller model to show that most existing roller area formulations in the literature lead to consider-able overestimation of the wave energy dissipation, which is found to be close to, but smaller than, the energy dissipation in a hydraulic jump of the same height. The role of the roller density is also investigated,and we propose that it should be incorporated into modified roller area formulations until better knowledge of the roller area and its link with the mean roller density is acquired. Finally, using previously published results from deep water wave breaking studies, we propose a scaling law for energy dissipation in the inner surf zone, which achieves satisfactory results at both the time-averaged and wave-by-wave scales.

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Génie civil
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hal-04271920 , version 1 (06-11-2023)

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Kévin Martins, Chris E Blenkinsopp, Rolf Deigaard, Hannah E Power. Energy dissipation in the inner surf zone: new insights from LiDAR-based roller geometry measurements. Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans, 2018, 123 (5), pp.3386 - 3407. ⟨10.1029/2017jc013369⟩. ⟨hal-04271920⟩
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