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Article Dans Une Revue Colloids and Interfaces Année : 2018

Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers

Verena Dahl
  • Fonction : Auteur
  • PersonId : 1150087
Achim Friedrich
  • Fonction : Auteur
  • PersonId : 1150088
Jürgen Meyer
  • Fonction : Auteur
  • PersonId : 1150089
Joachim Venzmer
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  • PersonId : 1150090
Lhoussaine Belkoura
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  • PersonId : 1150091
Reinhard Strey
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  • PersonId : 1150092

Résumé

The aim of our work was to study the structure of a typical modern cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (o/w-emulsion), based on the emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate and glycerylstearate/stearyl alcohol as consistency enhancer. We have used a systematic approach building up the cosmetic emulsion step by step, characterizing all systems by using Small Angle Neutron Scattering (SANS), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Freeze Fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy (FF-TEM), light microscopy and rheology. The starting point was the pure emulsifier in water, which was shown to form lamellar stacked bilayers with a spacing of 7 nm, coexisting with polydisperse unilamellar vesicles in the sub-µm range. Upon addition of consistency enhancer, also multilamellar vesicles could be obtained. Then, oil has been added stepwise, until finally a complete cosmetic o/w-emulsion was obtained. In the final emulsion, oil droplets with sizes in the µm range are surrounded by multiple, irregularly spaced bilayer structures and vesicles. Approximately 30% of the water present in the system shows a restricted mobility (“encapsulated water”) according to PFG-NMR. Crucial for the viscosity build-up is the presence of the oil droplets; a cream-like consistency is obtained by steric interaction of oil droplets and crystalline bilayer structures in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.
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hal-03723845 , version 1 (15-07-2022)

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Verena Dahl, Achim Friedrich, Jürgen Meyer, Joachim Venzmer, Lhoussaine Belkoura, et al.. Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers. Colloids and Interfaces, 2018, 2 (1), pp.3. ⟨10.3390/colloids2010003⟩. ⟨hal-03723845⟩
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