Waves effects on “hard” rock cliffed coasts: Cliff-top storm deposit dynamics on Banneg Island during winter 2013-2014
Résumé
Large clastic cliff-top storm deposits (called CTSDs) are one of the most remarkable signatures that characterizes extreme storm wave events in the Northeastern Atlantic Basin. Hence, the study of CTSDs is of key importance for understanding and predicting the impacts of extreme storm wave events on rocky coasts. This study is based on a new set of data including hydrodynamic measurements in both deep and intertidal waters, and CTSDs displacement and deposition across Banneg Island during the stormy winter 2013-2014. Two drone-based surveys were carried out in January 2013 (pre-storm) and in April 2014 (post-storm). In addition, complementary field observations were carried out during the winter, providing a large and accurate dataset. Concerning the hydrodynamic measurements, nine pressure sensors were deployed along four cross-shore profiles on the western coast of the island, to record wave and water level conditions between December 2013 and April 2014. Aerial orthorectified photographs and digital elevation model of differences enabled a detailed spatial description of the reworking of cliff-top storm deposits. After the storms, 172 fresh scars corresponding to quarrying in the bed rock were localized above high spring tide water level, 507 boulders were transported up to 40 m inland, at altitudes of 8 to 14 meters above mean sea level, and the tracks of 170 of them were identified. The water levels and wave parameters estimated from the pressure sensor measurements provided accurate information on the maximum water elevation reached during the largest storms. After calibrating the Stockdon’s formula against field measurements, runup elevation were computed along the four survey profiles for the whole winter 2013-2014. Then, the maximum runup excursion were computed based on the observed tide level. The results revealed a large number of overwash episodes, associated with high tidal level, atmospheric surges and large waves, which were partially confirmed by morphological observations. This study confirms the major role played by extreme storm wave events on CTSDs quarrying, transport, and deposition on Banneg Island, as hypothesized in previous studies.