Article Dans Une Revue Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy Année : 2026

Statistical and nonlinear dynamics of rogue waves in varying bathymetric environments

Résumé

Investigating the transformation of ocean surface waves from intermediate to shallow water is essential for predicting extreme coastal events such as rogue waves. In this study, controlled wave-flume experiments employing dispersive focusing were conducted to generate breaking waves with varying spectral bandwidths and nonlinearities. Two bathymetric configurations were examined: a single-sloped profile (Bathy_1) and a compound profile with a steep slope followed by a flat bottom (Bathy_2). The nonlinear dynamics were assessed using wavelet-based bicoherence, whereas the non-Gaussian behavior of rogue waves was investigated in both bathymetric configurations through statistical parameters derived from the time series. In Bathy_2, autobicoherence revealed stronger nonlinear interactions over the steep slope. Kurtosis increased during wave focusing in both bathymetries, while skewness diverged: it decreased and shifted negative in Bathy_2 but increased in Bathy_1. After breaking, both metrics returned to initial levels. Probability distributions in both cases deviated from the Rayleigh model, with the largest discrepancies at the slope end. The compound profile (Bathy_2) showed a higher probability of extreme wave heights. These results show that seafloor variability affects rogue wave formation and statistics, emphasizing its importance in coastal hazard models and resilience strategies.

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Dates et versions

hal-05557752 , version 1 (18-03-2026)

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Reine Matar, Nizar Abcha, Nicolas Lecoq, Emma-Imen Turki. Statistical and nonlinear dynamics of rogue waves in varying bathymetric environments. Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy, 2026, ⟨10.1007/s40722-026-00468-3⟩. ⟨hal-05557752⟩
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