Natural deep eutectic solvents: the future of natural cosmetic formulation?
Résumé
Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES) constitute a new generation of green ionic liquids, first introduced as solvents with unique properties in chemistry by Abbott et al. in 20031 Recently, NaDES have focused the interest of cosmetic industry due to their unique properties. Their high solvent power, combined with their stabilizing ability, make NaDES suitable as a sustainable alternative to prepare greener active ingredient from vegetal or biotechnological biomasses. Unlike organic solvent ordinary used to extract active molecules from plants or algae, NaDES are not volatile and will persist in the final cosmetic formulation. This communication exposes the principal points that must be particularly taken care at every step of the development of a NaDES- based cosmetic product, from the NaDES composition to the sensory impact on final product and their harmlessness towards skin. Concrete examples will illustrate each key points to give a global overview of the benefice/risk balance of NaDES in cosmetics.
1 Abbott, A.P., Boothby, D., Capper, G., Davies, D.L., Rasheed, R.K., 2004. Deep Eutectic Solvents Formed between Choline Chloride and Carboxylic Acids: Versatile Alternatives to Ionic Liquids. J. Am. Chem. Soc. 126, 9142–9147.