Endorsement of sustainable luxury: Exploring its ambivalence phenomenon
Résumé
Aim of the research
Luxury itself is an ambivalent concept. While the sustainable activities of luxury brands may be
welcomed by some consumers (Park et al., 2019), others see luxury and sustainability as inherently
opposed. Furthermore, the literature suggests that the type of sustainable cause, whether social or
environmental, may elicit different consumer responses to brand engagement (Janssen, et al., 2017;
Muniz & Guzmán, 2021). Collaboration with a celebrity may further reinforce these negative
perceptions by highlighting the strategic aspect of the approach (Chang, 2011; O'Donohoe, 2001).
Indeed, we do not know whether these conflicting reactions are more likely to arise from brands'
sustainable activities or rather from the mobilization of endorsement strategies. This leads to the
following research questions: What are the antecedents of ambivalence in the context of sustainable
luxury endorsement? Is the emergence of this phenomenon due to the commitment of the luxury brand
itself or to the presence of the celebrity in promoting the brand's activities?
Theoretical background
Sustainable luxury and ambivalence
As an ambivalent concept, luxury can satisfy both the conformist desires of some consumers and the
snobbish desires of others (Kastanakis & Balabanis, 2014). In the case of sustainable luxury, the
existence of conflicting attitudes among consumers is a frequently observed situation (Kapferer &
Michaut-Denizeau, 2020). Paradoxically, luxury brands can be perceived as sustainable not only in
terms of the dimensions of product quality, durability and rarity (Kapferer & Michaut, 2015), but also
through the ethical values of celebrities who support the sustainable practices of brands in the sector
(Park et al., 2019).
Commercial motives as a source of ambivalence
Beyond the ambivalence generated by luxury itself (Dubois, et al., 2001), the endorsement of
sustainable luxury can also facilitate the emergence of negative reactions. Celebrity endorsement can
counterbalance the perception of incompatibility between luxury and sustainability, thus reinforcing
positive consumer reactions (Muniz & Guzmán, 2021; Park et al., 2019). Conversely, the endorsement
strategy can generate negative perceptions, as it resembles a consistent effort on the part of the brand to
present itself in a sustainable light, thus making consumers skeptical (Chang, 2011).
Methodology and key findings
Exploratory qualitative phase
In order to identify the existence of contradictory reactions at the origin of the ambivalence
phenomenon, the AOL technique was first used. The AOL is a projective technique already used in
luxury research (Hemonnet & Valette-Florence, 2020), which allows to uncover hidden motives or
thoughts related to a given consumption context. In this study, participants were asked to imagine that
an influential figure had endorsed the sustainable commitment of a luxury brand of their choice. In
addition to examining the effect of the endorser on participants' perceptions, we also distinguished
between two types of cause: a social cause, illustrated by a donation to a non-governmental organization
(NGO) (the "Donate" group, 6 respondents), and an environmental cause, illustrated by the integration
of recycled materials into the brand's supply chain (the "Recycling" group, 6 respondents).
The survey followed the three usual steps mentioned in the literature (Kessous & Valette Florence,
2019), relying on an INDSCAL approach to derive the AOL mappings. Those mappings revealed two
notable findings. Firstly, the coexistence of positive and negative responses suggests a phenomenon of
ambivalence in support for sustainable luxury. The antecedents are, on the one hand, a positive
perception of the brand because of its commitment and, on the other hand, the perception of commercial
motives. The study also suggests that consumers may react differently depending on the type of brand
commitment (i.e. social vs. environmental).
Empirically, in a second quantitative step, our research model manipulates the effect of celebrity
endorsement and the type of cause on the emergence of positive and negative reactions in the
endorsement of sustainable luxury (2 by 2 experiment). The research design was tested using a PLS
SEM approach, given the small sample size (N=192) and the possibility of overcoming a multinormal
distribution.
Our research model proposes to measure the effect of celebrity endorsement and the type of
cause supported on participants' positive reactions (i.e., perceptions of luxury associated with the brand
[H1+] and intention to recommend the brand [H2+]) and negative reactions (i.e., commercial motives
[H3a- and H3b-]). As suggested by the AOL study, commercial motives are perceived as moderating
the effects. The coexistence of these conflicting reactions may thus explain the impact of a celebrity on
the emergence of the ambivalence phenomenon resulting from the endorsement of sustainable luxury.
Overall, the PLS model was validated according to the usual tests of convergent and
discriminant validity and reliability, along with good fit indices (GoF = 0.366 and SRMR = 0.069).
When the celebrity supports a luxury brand's advocacy for a cause, the positive effects on luxury
perception (β = 0.451) and intention to recommend the brand (β = 0.520) show that hypotheses H1 and
H2 are supported. Regarding negative effects, celebrity endorsement induces a negative moderation of
commercial motives on the relationship between perceived compatibility and luxury perception (β = -
0.169), but this effect is not significant on the relationship between perceived compatibility and
intention to recommend. Hypothesis H3a is therefore supported for this type of cause, but H3b is not.
More specifically, the experiments show that celebrity plays a role in the emergence of the
ambivalence phenomenon, especially in the case of a social cause. For an environmental cause,
celebrity endorsement tends to have a stronger impact on the intention to recommend than in a situation
without endorsement. The effect on luxury perceptions is similar whether the celebrity endorses the
brand or not. For a social cause, celebrity endorsement has a stronger effect on the perception of luxury
than in the absence of endorsement. It also has a positive effect on the intention to recommend
compared to a situation without celebrity endorsement. This suggests that although celebrity
endorsement of social luxury generates greater ambivalence, this type of cause also increases
consumers' positive reactions more strongly.