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Article Dans Une Revue Journal of Geophysical Research Année : 2012

A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone

Jean-Francois Filipot
  • Fonction : Auteur
Fabrice Ardhuin

Résumé

A new wave-breaking dissipation parameterization designed for phase-averaged spectral wave models is presented. It combines wave breaking basic physical quantities, namely, the breaking probability and the dissipation rate per unit area. The energy lost by waves is first explicitly calculated in physical space before being distributed over the relevant spectral components. The transition from deep to shallow water is made possible by using a dissipation rate per unit area of breaking waves that varies with the wave height, wavelength and water depth. This parameterization is implemented in the WAVEWATCH III modeling framework, which is applied to a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to the beach scale. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Model errors are comparable to those of other specialized deep or shallow water parameterizations. This work shows that it is possible to have a seamless parameterization from the deep ocean to the surf zone.

Dates et versions

hal-04499174 , version 1 (11-03-2024)

Identifiants

Citer

Jean-Francois Filipot, Fabrice Ardhuin. A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research, 2012, 117 (C00J08), 19 pp. ⟨10.1029/2011JC007784⟩. ⟨hal-04499174⟩
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