A unified deep-to-shallow water wave-breaking probability parameterization - Archive ouverte HAL Accéder directement au contenu
Article Dans Une Revue Journal of Geophysical Research Année : 2010

A unified deep-to-shallow water wave-breaking probability parameterization

Résumé

Breaking probabilities and breaking wave height distributions (BWHDs) in deep, intermediate, and shallow water depth are compared, and a generic parameterization is proposed to represent the observed variability of breaking parameters as a function of the nondimensional water depth. In intermediate and deep water, where waves of different scales may have markedly different breaking probabilities, a BWHD as a function of wave frequency is proposed and validated with intermediate-depth and deep water observational data. The current study focuses on waves with frequencies between 0.55 and 3.45 times the peak frequency f(p). For the dominant frequency, the integration of the frequency-dependent BWHD provides a breaking probability that reproduces the known threshold-type behavior of the breaking probability for dominant waves. In shallow water, the present breaking statistics parameterization is consistent with other independent formulations validated by shallow water-breaking observations.
Fichier non déposé

Dates et versions

hal-04498902 , version 1 (11-03-2024)

Identifiants

Citer

Jean-Francois Filipot, Fabrice Ardhuin, Alexander V. Babanin. A unified deep-to-shallow water wave-breaking probability parameterization. Journal of Geophysical Research, 2010, 115 (C04022), 15 p. ⟨10.1029/2009JC005448⟩. ⟨hal-04498902⟩
0 Consultations
0 Téléchargements

Altmetric

Partager

Gmail Facebook X LinkedIn More