USES AND CUSTOMS OF OUR SOCIETIES: WHEN YESTERDAY’S CLOTHES SHOW THEIR WILD SIDE - Archive ouverte HAL Accéder directement au contenu
Poster De Conférence Année : 2023

USES AND CUSTOMS OF OUR SOCIETIES: WHEN YESTERDAY’S CLOTHES SHOW THEIR WILD SIDE

Résumé

Before the synthetic fibers boom, natural fibers were only used in textile production. Traces of clothing made from natural fibers date back to over 6,000 BC. For centuries, animal or plant fibers have been the basis for protection against sometimes extreme climatic conditions. Until the middle-age, each region produced clothing locally depending on climate, fibers grown, and endemic fauna. As they reflect our habits and customs deeply linked to cultural practices, they offer a better understanding of past production processes. As part of its exhibition ”Wild Life in the Wardrobe” on traditional costumes in the Musée Départemental Breton of Quimper, we determined the animal origin of some materials in these traditional garments, from everyday outfits to ceremonial costumes. Wildlife and domestic animals hide behind the round hats and headdresses, symbolizing Brittany. While MALDI-TOF analysis is a routine strategy to identify the origin of a single fur, the materials collected from traditional garments associate several taxonomies, e.g., the felt used in hats is a mixture of fibers with interweaving of hairs from several animals. Deciphering keratin origins is hindered by numerous disulfide bonds, lowering keratin solubility and enzymatic proteolysis. Due to human use, the samples are unfortunately highly contaminated with modern contaminants, from human keratins to human skin lipids, to which the lipid constituents of the fibers specific to the fur itself must be added. A sample processing protocol, modified from Paolella (1) and C. Az’emard (2) work, was applied to wash the lipids and improve solubilization. After several days of denaturation, the proteins were digested before LC-MS/MS analysis. The specific sequences were then selected, and the associated MS/MS signatures were manually validated to confirm the species of keratin identified. (1) Paolella, S. (2013). J. Mass Spectrom. 48 919–926. (2) Az’emard, C. (2019) J. Archaeol. Sci. 110 104996
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Dates et versions

hal-04228816 , version 1 (04-10-2023)

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Domaine public

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  • HAL Id : hal-04228816 , version 1

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Emmanuelle Demey-Thomas, Sarah Leberre, Pierre Berthet, Jean-Pierre Gonidec, Solenne Rouault, et al.. USES AND CUSTOMS OF OUR SOCIETIES: WHEN YESTERDAY’S CLOTHES SHOW THEIR WILD SIDE. 39TH FRENCH DAYS OF MASS SPECTROMETRY, Sep 2023, Marseille, France. ⟨hal-04228816⟩
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