Salty encounters: How to study ‘good’ relations with salt
Résumé
Salt (sodium chloride) is a chemical compound embedded solidly in cooking and eating routines and practices. It is a precious companion to conservation, recipes, table decoration, and gustative appreciations. However, salt overconsumption (Brown et al, 2009; Eyles et al, 2016) is one of the top two dietary risk factors contributing majorly to cardiovascular-related deaths. The current mean of salt intake is almost twice the recommended by the WHO (in the member countries) and the figures are predicted to increase. Relations with salts, good or bad, form as multiple knowledges (scientific, policy, experiential, practical, embodied) get translated into salting practices (Poulain, 2002). This translation process between the lay and scientific knowledges, aesthetic values and public health concerns requires care for how to analyze everyday salting practices from a relational and ecosystemic perspective, taking seriously material interactions of salt itself (with/within different products, for example). We ground this paper in ethnographic and experimental work within the French project “Sal&Mieux: Optimizing the use of discretionary salt” which aims to better understand and, consequentially to ‘improve’ discretionary salt intake. We trace how the ethnography of practices travels into experimental protocols, instantiating our puzzles of studying ‘good’ and ‘bad’ relations with salt. With a feminist STS commitment to thinking with care, we wonder how to account for embodiment work (Endaltseva and Jerak-Zuiderent, 2021), aesthetic values (Pols, 2019), relations with food pleasure (Dupuy & Poulain, 2012; Dupuy, 2013), taste freedom and collective orders of sensing (Voß and Guggenheim, 2019) when shaping scientifically knowledge of ‘good’ salting.