Choreographies of good salting: Towards situated ethics of care in food practices
Résumé
Grounding myself in the empirical data of everyday salting practices, I wonder how the politics and ethics of care work can be retranslated through an eating body – a body in motion for “good eating”, tinkering with fluctuating life rhythms, desires, pleasures, health obligations, and work paces. By empiricizing salt consumption within the context of everyday life, I challenge “medicalised ethics” of eating which feeds public health campaigns for salt reduction (“eat less fat, less sweet, less salty”), and not only. I challenge a universal and moral figure of a good eater – that which follows steadily the promoted healthy eating, who integrates nutritional norms in a consistent manner, without moving away from them in search for food pleasures. Instead, I retrace the choreographies of food work of care performed by eaters – shopping, planning, cleaning, taking care of, creating special occasions, loving, and improvising with what is available. I thus draw an empirical and situated figure of an “eater good enough”, engaged in a continuous oscillating work between care and neglect, in order to eat “as well as it is possible”. I claim this figure to be at the center of a situated ethics of care in food practices, moving through multiple vulnerabilities that food modernity brings around.