Delicious fun : Humor in Contemporary Fine Dining
Résumé
Far away from classical Haute Cuisine standards, some recent Cooks together with a heterogeneous network of experts – investors, artists, scientists, thinkers – renovate the cooking practice nurturing cooking with arts, science and business approaches.
Such “holistic cuisine” (Beck, Munk 2019) or “360 gastronomy” (BCC 2020) incorporates, with hardly any taboo, a broad spectrum of humor types: from playful – “Messi’s goal” (El Celler de Can Roca), eatable landscape reconstituting the intense emotion lived by a football fan –, to dark – like “Farm-chicken" (The Alchemist) which denounces animal suffering –, or self-deprecating – “Oops I dropped the lemon tart” (Bottura), dessert served in a pitiful condition, in a three-Michelin-star restaurant...
Why is humor playing such a significant role in current avant-garde dining experiences?
First, diners’ expectations increasingly lie in the restaurateurs’ ability to offer “eatertainment”: unique, memorable and entertaining experiences. Then, the humor seems to be a efficient vector of reflexivity, motto of most disruptive restaurants. Beyond deliciousness, they create “interesting” dishes (Aduriz 2012) which go “beyond the plate” (Munk). The humor inserted in such thoughtful degustations joins a flow of poetic, reflexive and funny peak moments.