Near‐Bed Sediment Transport Processes During Onshore Bar Migration in Large‐Scale Experiments: Comparison With Offshore Bar Migration
Résumé
Nearshore sand bars are alongshore ridges on the seabed, typically located in the shoaling and surf zones of many beaches around the world (e.g., Wijnberg & Kroon, 2002; Wright & Short, 1984). They can be alongshore uniform or feature complex geometries like rip channels and crescentic shapes (e.g., van Enckevort & Ruessink, 2003b). In regards to the predominant mechanism of their formation, the breakpoint hypothesis, originally proposed by Dyhr-Nielsen and Sørensen (1970) and demonstrated via numerical modeling by Dally and Dean (1984), is widely accepted. There, the bars form via convergence of onshore transport from bedload under shoaling waves and offshore transport from suspended transport under broken waves-thus being located close to the points of wave breaking. Through wave breaking bars promote energy dissipation. As a consequence, less wave energy reaches the shoreline, reducing erosion and storm damage. Additionally, bars play an important role
Origine | Publication financée par une institution |
---|