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Article Dans Une Revue Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Année : 2020

Laboratory study of non-linear wave–wave interactions of extreme focused waves in the nearshore zone

Résumé

Extreme waves play a crucial role in marine inundation hazards and coastal erosion. Prediction of non-linear wave–wave interactions is crucial in assessing the propagation of shallow water extreme waves in coastal regions. In this article, we experimentally study non-linear wave–wave interactions of large-amplitude focused wave groups propagating in a two-dimensional wave flume over a mild slope (β=1:25). The influence of the frequency spectrum and the steepness on the non-linear interactions of focused waves are examined. The generated wave trains correspond to Pierson–Moskowitz and JONSWAP (γ=3.3 or γ=7) spectra. Subsequently, we experimentally approach this problem by the use of a bispectral analysis applied on short time series, via the wavelet-based bicoherence parameter, which identifies and quantifies the phase coupling resulting from non-resonant or bound triad interactions with the peak frequency. The bispectral analysis shows that the phase coupling increases gradually and approaches 1 just prior to breaking, accordingly with the spectrum broadening and the energy increase in high-frequency components. Downstream breaking, the values of phase coupling between the peak frequency and its higher harmonics decrease drastically, and the bicoherence spectrum becomes less structured.
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Dates et versions

hal-03087854 , version 1 (20-09-2021)

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Iskander Abroug, Nizar Abcha, Armelle Jarno, François Marin. Laboratory study of non-linear wave–wave interactions of extreme focused waves in the nearshore zone. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 2020, 20 (12), pp.3279-3291. ⟨10.5194/nhess-20-3279-2020⟩. ⟨hal-03087854⟩
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