Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips - Archive ouverte HAL Accéder directement au contenu
Article Dans Une Revue Journal of Coastal Research Année : 2020

Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips

Aaron Barrett
  • Fonction : Auteur
Tim Scott
  • Fonction : Auteur

Résumé

Most of rip-current field experiments have focused on persistent rips along rip-channeled sandy beaches or transient rips along reasonably alongshore-uniform surf-zone morphology, while experiments on rip flowing against structures are scarce. In October 2018, a 3-week field experiment was performed at Anglet beach, SW France, aiming at examining the dynamics of high-energy rip currents in complex settings. The beach is barred with prominent inherited geology, characterized by the presence of a 500-m headland and a natural submerged reef. A large array of in-situ instruments was deployed to capture the temporal and spatial variability of rip flow circulations, including ADCPs, surf-zone drifters and video monitoring. The latter allowed to identify a wide range of rip-flow patterns. Among these patterns, a high-intensity rip current flowing against the headland was a dominant feature for obliquely incident waves. Such a boundary rip current was driven by the deflection of the longshore current against the headland, peaking at 0.7 m/s (5-min time-and depth-averaged) 800-m offshore in 12-m depth for a moderate storm event with 4-m obliquely incident waves. Very-lowfrequency (O(1h) and O(30min)) fluctuations of this rip current were observed around low tide. Measurements of the vertical structure of the rip reveal that the deflection rip was more vertically-sheared as the water depth increases, with higher velocities near the surface, which is typical of a theoretical rip head structure.
Fichier principal
Vignette du fichier
Mouragues_et_al_2020.pdf (549.2 Ko) Télécharger le fichier
Origine : Fichiers produits par l'(les) auteur(s)

Dates et versions

hal-03044435 , version 1 (01-03-2021)

Identifiants

Citer

Arthur Mouragues, Philippe Bonneton, Bruno Castelle, Vincent Marieu, Aaron Barrett, et al.. Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips. Journal of Coastal Research, 2020, 95 (sp1), pp.578. ⟨10.2112/si95-113.1⟩. ⟨hal-03044435⟩
73 Consultations
118 Téléchargements

Altmetric

Partager

Gmail Facebook X LinkedIn More