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Journal Articles Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans Year : 2018

Wave Runup Over Steep Rocky Cliffs

Abstract

Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low-to-mild-sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < taní µí»½ < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave parameters are used to force a high-resolution wave model, and nearshore wave parameters and high-resolution topographic data are analyzed concurrently with runup time series in order to assess the dependence of the runup on hydrodynamic conditions and morphological parameters. The wave runup is shown to be strongly related to the square root of the offshore significant wave height times the offshore wavelength. The measurements also reveal the depth dependence of the runup, which is mainly attributed to the curvature of the foreshore profile. In comparison to empirical relation obtained for a mild-sloping beach, the present data show a significant reduction in normalized wave runup, that is attributed to enhanced bottom friction over the rocky bottom.
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Dates and versions

hal-02064316 , version 1 (11-03-2019)

Identifiers

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G. Dodet, F. Leckler, Damien Sous, Fabrice Ardhuin, J F Filipot, et al.. Wave Runup Over Steep Rocky Cliffs. Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans, 2018, 123 (10), pp.7185-7205. ⟨10.1029/2018JC013967⟩. ⟨hal-02064316⟩
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