Effects of bed-sediment grain-size distribution on wave height predictions in the English Channel. - Archive ouverte HAL Accéder directement au contenu
Poster De Conférence Année : 2013

Effects of bed-sediment grain-size distribution on wave height predictions in the English Channel.

Résumé

The present study examines the energy dissipation of wind-generated surface-gravity waves by bottom friction in relation to the seabed roughness magnitude. The investigation is based on the phase-averaged numerical wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) implemented in the English Channel. Two formulations of bottom drag coefficients are considered: the JONSWAP expression and the eddy-viscosity model of Madsen. Numerical predictions of significant wave height are compared with available field data collected at (1) three offshore lightships and (2) two nearshore wave buoys off Cherbourg and Le Havre harbours. Best estimates are found with the heterogeneous bottom roughness associated with the grain size of seabed sediments. Mappings of coastal areas influenced by bottom friction are produced exhibiting significant energy dissipation in the Normano-Breton Gulf and the surroundings of the Isle of Wight.
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Dates et versions

hal-01867129 , version 1 (04-09-2018)

Identifiants

  • HAL Id : hal-01867129 , version 1

Citer

Nicolas Guillou. Effects of bed-sediment grain-size distribution on wave height predictions in the English Channel.. Coastal Dynamics 2013, Jun 2013, Arcachon, France. ⟨hal-01867129⟩

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