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Article Dans Une Revue Journal of Fluid Mechanics Année : 2017

Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements

Résumé

The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our method accurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport.
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Dates et versions

hal-01588687 , version 1 (18-09-2017)

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Philippe Bonneton, David Lannes. Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2017, 833, pp.399-429. ⟨10.1017/jfm.2017.666⟩. ⟨hal-01588687⟩
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