Languages of sustainability in Fine Dining. Exploratory insights on the Haute Cuisine Restaurants El Invernadero (R. de la Calle) and Mugaritz (A. L. Aduriz) - Archive ouverte HAL Accéder directement au contenu
Communication Dans Un Congrès Année : 2023

Languages of sustainability in Fine Dining. Exploratory insights on the Haute Cuisine Restaurants El Invernadero (R. de la Calle) and Mugaritz (A. L. Aduriz)

Résumé

Producing both sustainable and high-end cuisine in the long term is a major challenge for today's fine dining establishments around the world. Such an effort may even go against the stereotypes surrounding the luxury restaurant environment, known for its abundance, use of rare species (e.g. beluga caviar), disregard for seasonality and fatty dishes (Batat and De Kerviler, 2019). On the contrary, the 'triple bottom line' of sustainable business, with its focus on the 3Ps: planet, people and profit (Sheth et al., 2011), is even more complex for fine dining restaurants. The equation involves a firm commitment to environmental stewardship, social equity and sound economic viability, with an additional factor: the production of highly distinctive customer journeys. In Spain, the avant-garde cuisine revolution that began two decades ago seems to have run its course. New gastronomic trends - more holistic, more connected, more conscious - are emerging. These trends - called 360° gastronomy (BCC, 2021), holistic gastronomy (Beck, Munk, 2019) or social gastronomy (King, 2018) - all aim to positively influence society through food. The present study examines two restaurants: Mugaritz (A. L. Aduriz, Errenteria) and El Invernadero (R. de la Calle, Madrid). These multi-award winning establishments pay particular attention to the key functional factors of sustainable food experiences: (1) the integration of local food related to local agriculture, and (2) the environmental and human impact of their business activities (Jacobs, Klosse, 2016). The two ventures integrate the relationship between the restaurant and its environment as a key component of their unique selling proposition and brand image. Multisensoriality, creativity, pleasure and aesthetics - also constitutive of sustainable fine dining offerings (Batat, 2020) - are essential components of the Invernadero and Mugaritz experiences. All components - the menus, the dishes, the restaurant space(s), the décor and the narratives - converge towards the dual goal of providing the most memorable and sustainable experience. This research seeks to identify manifestations of functional and aesthetic sustainability in multisensory and intermediary (Yemsi, 2020) dining experiences. Each establishment has its own system of signs - colours, shapes, layouts, words and symbols - that convey broader meanings and an original vision of the world. The methodology is deeply interdisciplinary, combining approaches from sociology and art studies, and combining in-depth interviews with restaurant staff and managers with the internal analysis of multi-layered gastronomic experiences - as multi-sensory, emotional and reflexive journeys. Thus, beyond purely functional aspects, the sustainability of experiences is analysed in its aesthetic and political dimensions - through the interrelations between aesthetics as the distribution of the sensible and politics as specific arrangements of participation and exclusion (Rancière, 2004). Finally, the research interrogates the epistemological dimensions of gastronomic sustainability, considering fine dining as a reflexive and critical experience that questions the conditions of possibility of the dish and how the way we cook and eat affects the world.
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Dates et versions

hal-04315965 , version 1 (30-11-2023)

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  • HAL Id : hal-04315965 , version 1

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Anne-Claire Yemsi Paillissé, Iñaki Martínez de Albeñiz. Languages of sustainability in Fine Dining. Exploratory insights on the Haute Cuisine Restaurants El Invernadero (R. de la Calle) and Mugaritz (A. L. Aduriz). 8th Asia Euro Conference - Global Changes and transformative future, ISTHIA - Taylor's University Kuala Lumpur, Nov 2023, Toulouse (En ligne), France. ⟨hal-04315965⟩
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