BACKGROUND : Yam is a major staple food that provides both energy (starch) and bioactive compounds. However, there is a lack of knowledge on its cooking quality. We have determined the cooking quality of five varieties of water yam (among those most appreciated by consumers), when they were steamed or boiled. The yams were grown in two contrasting locations with regard to pedoclimatic conditions. RESULTS Ratio of length to mean circumference of the tuber, difficulty to peel, cooking time, color attributes, hardness of steamed pulp, and dry matter (DM) and starch contents significantly varied among varieties. Cooking time and hardness of the cooked pulp, either steamed or boiled, were higher for tubers grown at the drier location, with vertisols, than at the rainy one, with a ferralitic soil. The raw pulp was richer in starch at the rainy location. We found no correlation between either textural properties or DM and the cooking time. A slight ( r = 0.44) but significant correlation was recorded between the DM of the raw pulp and the hardness of the steamed product. CONCLUSION : We propose a comprehensive multicriteria approach for determination of yam cooking quality, textural properties, color attributes and chemical composition, along with varietal and environmental influences. This approach takes into consideration the complexity of food quality, allows a better understanding of its determinants and provides a basis for useful guidelines for breeders. © 2023 The Authors. Journal of The Science of Food and Agriculture published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Chemical Industry.