Equilibrium modeling of the Beach Profile on a Macrotidal Embayed Beach
Résumé
Predicting the pluriannual variability of shoreline position in response to hydrodynamic forcing (waves and tides) is of primordial interest scientists, engineers, and beach managers. 11-year time series of monthly profile beach survey and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed on a macrotidal sandy embayed beach in Brittany (France). An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the beach profile position over the whole intertidal zone as a function of the energy wave, wave power and water level. The predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases with decreasing elevation in the lower intertidal zone. The predicted result on the lower part taking into account of the still water level is not improved, but the erosion and accretion parameters are more reliable, according to the physical processes and could be compared to other study sites.
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