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Article Dans Une Revue Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences Année : 2013

Focusing wave group on a current of finite depth

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Formation of freak waves resulting from the wave packets propagating in finite water depth on the background of a current is studied experimentally and numerically. In the experiment, the freak waves appear as a result of dispersion focusing of wave train excited by wave maker with modulated frequency. The space evolution of the frequency modulated train is studied in numerical simulations. We showed that in the water of finite depth, a distance of focusing increases and amplitude in the focal point decreases in comparison with infinite water depth. Experimental results are in good agreement with numerical simulations if wave breaking of surface waves does not occur.
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hal-00914200 , version 1 (04-08-2020)

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D. Merkoune, Julien Touboul, Nizar Abcha, Dominique Mouazé, A.B. Ezersky. Focusing wave group on a current of finite depth. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 2013, 13 (11), pp.2941-2949. ⟨10.5194/nhess-13-2941-2013⟩. ⟨hal-00914200⟩
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