WAVE PROPAGATION OVER A STEEP BATHYMETRIC SLOPE: INFLUENCE OF THE BED POROSITY ON THE WAVE PHASE MATCHING
Résumé
In the present study, the wave propagation over a rectangular porous bar was investigated. The measurements of the reflection coefficient versus frequency for both porous and impervious bars were first compared to numerical results based on linear theories for gravity waves. The results have shown that the interference process is weakly influenced by the porosity of the bar and by the presence of impervious vertical boundaries at both sides of the bar. On the contrary, the bar steps and their characteristics have a local significant influence in terms of wave celerity and horizontal velocity components.