<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<TEI xmlns="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xmlns:hal="http://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/" xmlns:gml="http://www.opengis.net/gml/3.3/" xmlns:gmlce="http://www.opengis.net/gml/3.3/ce" version="1.1" xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0 http://api.archives-ouvertes.fr/documents/aofr-sword.xsd">
  <teiHeader>
    <fileDesc>
      <titleStmt>
        <title>HAL TEI export of hal-00302642</title>
      </titleStmt>
      <publicationStmt>
        <distributor>CCSD</distributor>
        <availability status="restricted">
          <licence target="https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/">CC0 1.0 - Universal</licence>
        </availability>
        <date when="2026-05-01T07:25:02+02:00"/>
      </publicationStmt>
      <sourceDesc>
        <p part="N">HAL API Platform</p>
      </sourceDesc>
    </fileDesc>
  </teiHeader>
  <text>
    <body>
      <listBibl>
        <biblFull>
          <titleStmt>
            <title xml:lang="en">Statistical properties of nonlinear one-dimensional wave fields</title>
            <author role="aut">
              <persName>
                <forename type="first">D.</forename>
                <surname>Chalikov</surname>
              </persName>
              <idno type="halauthorid">332285-0</idno>
              <affiliation ref="#struct-108837"/>
            </author>
            <editor role="depositor">
              <persName>
                <forename>Publication</forename>
                <surname>EGU</surname>
              </persName>
              <email type="md5">84306a661d75fec8a68289832f1c43e2</email>
              <email type="domain">ccsd.cnrs.fr</email>
            </editor>
          </titleStmt>
          <editionStmt>
            <edition n="v1" type="current">
              <date type="whenSubmitted">2008-06-18 08:00:00</date>
              <date type="whenWritten">2005-06-30</date>
              <date type="whenModified">2025-03-14 10:12:03</date>
              <date type="whenReleased">2008-06-18 08:00:00</date>
              <date type="whenProduced">2005-06-30</date>
              <date type="whenEndEmbargoed">2005-06-30</date>
              <ref type="file" target="https://hal.science/hal-00302642v1/document">
                <date notBefore="2005-06-30"/>
              </ref>
              <ref type="file" subtype="publisherAgreement" n="1" target="https://hal.science/hal-00302642v1/file/npg-12-671-2005.pdf" id="file-302642-17650">
                <date notBefore="2005-06-30"/>
              </ref>
            </edition>
            <respStmt>
              <resp>contributor</resp>
              <name key="130100">
                <persName>
                  <forename>Publication</forename>
                  <surname>EGU</surname>
                </persName>
                <email type="md5">84306a661d75fec8a68289832f1c43e2</email>
                <email type="domain">ccsd.cnrs.fr</email>
              </name>
            </respStmt>
          </editionStmt>
          <publicationStmt>
            <distributor>CCSD</distributor>
            <idno type="halId">hal-00302642</idno>
            <idno type="halUri">https://hal.science/hal-00302642</idno>
            <idno type="halBibtex">chalikov:hal-00302642</idno>
            <idno type="halRefHtml">&lt;i&gt;Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics&lt;/i&gt;, 2005, 12 (5), pp.671-689</idno>
            <idno type="halRef">Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 2005, 12 (5), pp.671-689</idno>
            <availability status="restricted">
              <licence target="https://about.hal.science/hal-authorisation-v1/">HAL Authorization<ref corresp="#file-302642-17650"/></licence>
            </availability>
          </publicationStmt>
          <seriesStmt>
            <idno type="stamp" n="INSU">INSU - Institut National des Sciences de l'Univers</idno>
            <idno type="stamp" n="EGU">European Geosciences Union</idno>
            <idno type="stamp" n="EGU-HESSD" corresp="EGU">Hydrology and Earth System Sciences Discussions</idno>
          </seriesStmt>
          <notesStmt>
            <note type="audience" n="2">International</note>
            <note type="popular" n="0">No</note>
            <note type="peer" n="1">Yes</note>
          </notesStmt>
          <sourceDesc>
            <biblStruct>
              <analytic>
                <title xml:lang="en">Statistical properties of nonlinear one-dimensional wave fields</title>
                <author role="aut">
                  <persName>
                    <forename type="first">D.</forename>
                    <surname>Chalikov</surname>
                  </persName>
                  <idno type="halauthorid">332285-0</idno>
                  <affiliation ref="#struct-108837"/>
                </author>
              </analytic>
              <monogr>
                <idno type="halJournalId" status="VALID">1825</idno>
                <idno type="issn">1023-5809</idno>
                <idno type="eissn">1607-7946</idno>
                <title level="j">Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics</title>
                <imprint>
                  <publisher>European Geosciences Union (EGU)</publisher>
                  <biblScope unit="volume">12</biblScope>
                  <biblScope unit="issue">5</biblScope>
                  <biblScope unit="pp">671-689</biblScope>
                  <date type="datePub">2005-06-30</date>
                </imprint>
              </monogr>
            </biblStruct>
          </sourceDesc>
          <profileDesc>
            <langUsage>
              <language ident="en">English</language>
            </langUsage>
            <textClass>
              <classCode scheme="halDomain" n="phys.astr.co">Physics [physics]/Astrophysics [astro-ph]/Cosmology and Extra-Galactic Astrophysics [astro-ph.CO]</classCode>
              <classCode scheme="halDomain" n="sdu.astr">Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Astrophysics [astro-ph]</classCode>
              <classCode scheme="halDomain" n="sdu.stu">Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences</classCode>
              <classCode scheme="halTypology" n="ART">Journal articles</classCode>
              <classCode scheme="halOldTypology" n="ART">Journal articles</classCode>
              <classCode scheme="halTreeTypology" n="ART">Journal articles</classCode>
            </textClass>
            <abstract xml:lang="en">
              <p>A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scale dynamic and thermodynamic interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Statistical properties of nonlinear wave fields are investigated on a basis of direct hydrodynamical modeling of 1-D potential periodic surface waves. The method is based on a nonstationary conformal surface-following coordinate transformation; this approach reduces the principal equations of potential waves to two simple evolutionary equations for the elevation and the velocity potential on the surface. The numerical scheme is based on a Fourier transform method. High accuracy was confirmed by validation of the nonstationary model against known solutions, and by comparison between the results obtained with different resolutions in the horizontal. The scheme allows reproduction of the propagation of steep Stokes waves for thousands of periods with very high accuracy. The method here developed is applied to simulation of the evolution of wave fields with large number of modes for many periods of dominant waves. The statistical characteristics of nonlinear wave fields for waves of different steepness were investigated: spectra, curtosis and skewness, dispersion relation, life time. The prime result is that wave field may be presented as a superposition of linear waves is valid only for small amplitudes. It is shown as well, that nonlinear wave fields are rather a superposition of Stokes waves not linear waves. Potential flow, free surface, conformal mapping, numerical modeling of waves, gravity waves, Stokes waves, breaking waves, freak waves, wind-wave interaction.</p>
            </abstract>
          </profileDesc>
        </biblFull>
      </listBibl>
    </body>
    <back>
      <listOrg type="structures">
        <org type="laboratory" xml:id="struct-108837" status="VALID">
          <orgName>Earth Science System Interdisciplinary Center [College Park]</orgName>
          <orgName type="acronym">ESSIC</orgName>
          <desc>
            <address>
              <addrLine>College Park, MD 20740-3823 USA</addrLine>
              <country key="US"/>
            </address>
            <ref type="url">http://essic.umd.edu/joom2/</ref>
          </desc>
          <listRelation>
            <relation active="#struct-566869" type="direct"/>
            <relation active="#struct-75866" type="indirect"/>
            <relation active="#struct-566144" type="indirect"/>
          </listRelation>
        </org>
        <org type="regrouplaboratory" xml:id="struct-566869" status="VALID">
          <orgName>College of Computer, Mathematical, and Natural Sciences [College Park]</orgName>
          <desc>
            <address>
              <country key="US"/>
            </address>
          </desc>
          <listRelation>
            <relation active="#struct-75866" type="direct"/>
            <relation active="#struct-566144" type="indirect"/>
          </listRelation>
        </org>
        <org type="institution" xml:id="struct-75866" status="VALID">
          <idno type="IdRef">033011729</idno>
          <idno type="ROR">https://ror.org/047s2c258</idno>
          <idno type="Wikidata">Q503415</idno>
          <orgName>University of Maryland [College Park]</orgName>
          <orgName type="acronym">UMD</orgName>
          <desc>
            <address>
              <addrLine>College Park, MD 20742</addrLine>
              <country key="US"/>
            </address>
            <ref type="url">http://www.umd.edu/</ref>
          </desc>
          <listRelation>
            <relation active="#struct-566144" type="direct"/>
          </listRelation>
        </org>
        <org type="regroupinstitution" xml:id="struct-566144" status="VALID">
          <idno type="ISNI">0000 0001 2169 5073</idno>
          <idno type="ROR">https://ror.org/01r0c1p88</idno>
          <idno type="Wikidata">https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1480532</idno>
          <orgName>University System of Maryland</orgName>
          <desc>
            <address>
              <country key="US"/>
            </address>
          </desc>
        </org>
      </listOrg>
    </back>
  </text>
</TEI>